A brief
history of the Fitler Square neighborhood.
except
where noted, photos on this page are provided courtesy
of the Library
Company of Philadelphia, and with the assistance
of Charlene Peacock, Prints Department
all
images on this page will enlarge
(expanded
from an article by George Malcomson )
A textile-manufacturing
and transportation center, the neighborhood grew with
the westward expansion of the city through the 19th
century. And its history mirrors the evolution of Philadelphia
into America's most important manufacturing center,
and then its decline.
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Philadelphia
aerial view, ca. 1869
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(detail)
Rittenhouse-Fitler Square, ca. 1869
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From the city's
earliest history, the banks of the Schuylkill River
provided a vital alternative to the Delaware as a point
of shipping for the farms and residences on both sides
of the river in the Colonial period.
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Anna
Hallowell School, built 1838
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But in the
1830's and 1840's the wharves along the Schuylkill became
the first transfer point for the coal coming to the
city from the mines upstream. Meanwhile during the same
period, arriving Irish immigrants began to make the
neighborhood their home, taking the steevedore jobs
that resulted from the expanding coal trade, as well
as finding textile and weaving work, as others had done
in Kennsington through numerous private shops for the
looms of individual weavers, as well as rug and cloth-making
factories. The neighborhood at this time was rough-and-tumble,
and the few opportunities for poorly paid work did little
to assuage rampant poverty in the area. And because
of frequent recessions and economic depressions into
the early 20th century, even that work sometimes seemed
to disappear almost overnight. In addition to the larger
three-and-four story residences in the area, the Fitler
Square neighborhood boasts numerous small streets whose
serene beauty is the result of the cooperation and hard-work
by the residents. So it is difficult to recall that
small, charming houses lining delightful streets like
Panama, Naudain and Addison were once the homes of factory
workers working twelve-hour days, and that those workers
included women as well as children as young as ten years
of age.
By the 1870's,
the increasing size of ships made docking along the
relatively shallow Schuylkill less and less profitable.
And when the Reading Railroad began to haul its coal
east to the Delaware docks at Port Richmond, the Schuylkill's
value as a port quickly declined. Thus it was around
this time that the neighborhood began to slowly change
to
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21st
& Pine Streets, 1912
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one of primarily residential housing. Over time the neighborhood
became the home of some of the city's most prominent citizens.
The historical residences include the home of the naturalist
Edward Drinker Cope (two blocks east of the Square on
Pine Street), the home and then library and museum of
the Rosenbach brothers (on Delancey Street near 21st)
and the home of the
popular war journalist and novelist Richard Harding Davis
(on 21st Street just south of Walnut). And a few blocks
south and west of the Square lies the Naval Home, a designated
historical site which itself is adjacent to the site of
a major 19th century US Naval Base and Shipyard.
25th
& Spruce Streets looking west, ca. 1900
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Fitler Square
itself was created from a former brickyard by city ordinance
in 1896. It was named to honor Edwin H. Fitler, a popular
mayor of Philadelphia from 1887 to 1891. Among his many
distinctions, he had been elected for his single term
by the widest majority of voters up to that time.
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Northeast
corner 23rd & Pine, ca. 1900
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At the turn
of the 19th century, Fitler Square boasted pleasant
pathways and shading sycamores and elms. By the early
1920s, however, the park and much of the neighborhood
that surrounded it had slowly deteriorated. But a
member of the
Fine Arts faculty of the University of Pennsylvania,
James P. Methaney, saw the potential of the area. He
built a home for his family at 2420 Pine Street and
then persuaded Joseph H. Horn, one of the founders of
Horn and Hardart, to do the same. The Horn mansion was
completed in 1929 and still stands at 2410 Pine Street.
Methaney died in 1948 and is remembered in the Square
by a bronze plaque and memorial tree dedicated in 1968
by the Fitler Square Improvement Association.
newspaper
article: Fitler
Square Pays Tribute To Architect - James Metheny (November,
1968)
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Philadelphia
Aerial View, ca. 1926
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(detail)
Fitler Square Aerial View, ca. 1926
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Meanwhile,
attracted by the diverse housing stock available ranging
from tiny early-1800's trinities to substantial Victorian
town houses other newcomers followed.
The majority
of the buildings of the neighborhood date from the mid-19th
to the early 20th century, and the history of the neighborhood's
development can be traced through the changing styles
of its remarkably varied architecture.
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Schuylkill
River, east bank ca. 1926
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The evolution
of the neighborhood slowed during the Depression, but
the pace picked up after the end of the Second World
War.
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Fitler
Square, Jan. 1947
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Fitler
Square, Jan. 1947
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newspaper
article: Fitler
Park, Beautified By Civic Club, Increases Property Values
in Area (March 1949)
In 1953 the Square caught the eye of the Center City
Residents' Association, whose members asked local architect
Norman Rice to draft a rehabilitation plan.
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Architects,
Sept. 1954
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Rice's design
was approved by the Department of Recreation, administrator
of the park, and carried out. Cracked cement walks were
replaced by curving pathways and the bare dirt disappeared
under 10,000 ivy plants.
newspaper article:'Little
Pentagon,' Lots of Ivy Give Fitler Square New Look (September,
1954)
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Fitler
Square, Sept. 1954
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However, within a
few years the only things left of Rice's work were some
firethorn shrubs and the
brick guardhouse. Vandals destroyed or stole other plantings,
mutilated benches, and did their best to rip up brick
seating areas, the carefully-planted ivy and most of the
new small shrubs.
Aroused residents
formed the Fitler Square Improvement Association, which
was incorporated in 1962. The organization is dedicated
to raising money for maintenance and enhancement of
the park, supplementing the funds provided by the Department
of Recreation
In 1981, Fitler
Square again underwent major restoration. Under the
leadership of Mrs. John F. Wilson, founder and president
of the Fitler Square Improvement Association, brick
walkways were added, new lighting was installed, and
the park was enclosed within an attractive wrought iron
fence. A Victorian cast-iron fountain and pool in the
center of the Square, originally installed in 1976,
is now dedicated to the memory of Mrs. Wilson. In 1982,
a sculpture by Gerd Hesness, entitled "Fitler Square
Ram," was installed in the eastern end of the park.
In 1983, a sculpture by Eric Berg, entitled "Grizzly,"
was placed in the western end. And, in 1989, a third
sculpture, "Family of Turtles," also by Eric Berg, was
dedicated, having been donated by Mrs. David Kaufman.
Annuual membership
dues and proceeds from the yearly Spring Fair, started
in 1963, make possible new plantings, professional feeding,
care of the trees, seasonal changes of flowers and additional
custodial care when necessary. In addition to the Fair
held in May, the Association sponsors an Easter Egg
hunt, an annual Christmas tree lighting ceremony and
carol songfest, and a number of volunteer work days
throughout the year when residents pitch in to help
spruce up the Square.
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Schuylkill
River, east bank, ca. 1902
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Schuylkill
River from the west end of the South Street Bridge
looking south, ca. 1900
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Fitler Square Improvement Association